Stove Burner Keeps Clicking in East Arlington

What's going on with your oven

On most gas ranges, turning any knob closes a switch that tells the spark module to fire all burners (that's why they all click together — it's a design, not a malfunction). The clicking stops when you release the knob past light. Clicking that won't stop means something keeps that circuit closed: a switch wet or failed at one knob, a module that won't quit, or moisture bridging contacts after a spill or a deep clean. The pattern — clicking when off versus clicking while lit — splits the suspects cleanly.

East Arlington sits about 7 miles from Downtown Jacksonville, inside the core metro — local pros cover it daily.

How urgent is it? Not dangerous in itself, deeply annoying in practice. If drying doesn't cure it in a day, book it within the week.

What you can safely check yourself

• If you just cleaned or had a spill: unplug the range (or switch off its outlet) for 24 hours of drying before concluding anything is broken. Moisture clicks resolve themselves more often than any part does.
• Determine which knob starts it: turn each burner on and off in turn; often one knob's switch is the stuck one, and the clicking follows it.
• If the clicking is maddening meanwhile, unplug the range — the burners can still be lit manually with a match or lighter (hold it to the burner, then turn the gas on) while the spark system is offline.
• Check whether it clicks while a burner is lit and burning normally — that pattern points at switches or flame-sensing, not at gas delivery.

What a technician checks

Each knob's switch is tested for a stuck-closed state, the module proven by elimination, and re-ignition sensing checked on equipped models. Switches are inexpensive and honest work; modules get replaced only after every switch has been cleared — because a module replaced for a wet switch clicks on, unbothered.

Parts most often involved in this repair: igniter switches and harnesses, spark modules, igniter electrodes. Each is identified against your exact model number — no universal substitutes.

How it works: call the number on this page and describe what’s wrong. A local appliance repair professional who covers your area answers, runs the appliance, tests the systems the symptom points to, identifies the failed part by model number, and quotes one total for the complete repair — before starting. You decide with the full price in front of you.